How to Water Your Indoor Plants Properly (What I Do)
When I first started growing plants indoors, I thought watering was the easy part. I figured you water when the soil looks dry, and that’s that.
I was wrong.
Over time I learned two things the hard way:
Not all plants want the same watering schedule
How you water matters as much as how often you water
This post is exactly what I wish I had when I started—what I do now, why it works, and how to avoid the common mistakes that cause indoor plants to struggle.
The Biggest Beginner Mistake: Treating Every Plant the Same
Early on, I watered everything the same way. If one plant looked a little dry, I’d water it—then I’d water the others “while I’m at it.”
That’s one of the fastest ways to get:
Root rot
Fungus gnats
Yellow leaves
Slow growth
Weak plants that never really thrive
Some plants need consistently moist soil. Others need to dry out significantly between waterings. If you don’t respect that difference, you’ll always be guessing.
Step 1: Check Moisture Before You Water
The most important change I made was stopping the habit of “watering on a schedule” without checking the soil first.
How to check moisture
You can do this a few ways:
Finger test: stick your finger 1–2 inches into the soil
If it’s damp, don’t water yet
If it’s dry, you’re probably good to water (depending on plant type)
Moisture meter: a simple, inexpensive tool that measures moisture level in the root zone
Moisture meters aren’t perfect, but they’re a major upgrade from guessing—especially for beginners.
Step 2: Know Which Plants Need Dry-Back Time
Some plants actually perform better when the soil dries out for a period.
Examples of plants that often prefer drying out between waterings:
Many succulents and cacti
Some Mediterranean herbs (like rosemary)
Many drought-tolerant houseplants
Plants that often prefer more consistent moisture:
Leafy greens and many seedlings (when actively growing)
Basil and many soft herbs (not waterlogged, but not bone dry)
Certain tropical houseplants
The point isn’t to memorize every plant on earth—it’s to learn the needs of what you personally grow.
Step 3: Track Your Watering (This Changed Everything for Me)
One of the best things I ever did was build a simple watering tracker in Excel.
I track things like:
Date watered
How much water was used
Plant type
Notes (drooping, growth, yellowing, etc.)
Any changes in environment (heater running, colder week, more sunlight)
This gives you long-term data. Instead of guessing, you start seeing patterns:
Which plants dry faster
How seasons change your watering needs
What happens when indoor heat runs more in winter
This is especially helpful if you’re growing multiple plant types at once.
Step 4: Stop “Sipping” Water — Water Thoroughly
I used to water plants with a water bottle. I’d give each pot a little drink and move on.
The problem is that shallow watering causes:
Roots staying near the surface
Dry pockets deeper in the pot
Salt buildup (if you use nutrients)
Plants that look watered but aren’t actually hydrated properly
What I do instead: Thorough watering (rinsing through)
When it’s time to water, I water thoroughly enough that:
Water moves through the soil evenly
A small amount drains out the bottom
This helps:
Fully hydrate the root zone
Prevent dry pockets
Reduce buildup in the soil over time
If your pot doesn’t have drainage holes, you’re working against yourself.
Step 5: pH Matters (Especially If You Use Nutrients)
If you’re growing anything beyond basic houseplants—especially herbs, veggies, or more sensitive plants—pH becomes a real factor.
What pH is (simple definition)
pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline your water is.
Why it matters:
pH affects how well plants can absorb nutrients
If pH is off, plants can show deficiency symptoms even when nutrients are present
Tools to check pH
Digital pH meter (best option)
pH test strips (better than nothing)
Step 6: How to Check pH Before and After Flushing
If you’re feeding plants nutrients or suspect buildup, you may need to flush (rinsing the soil with clean water to reduce salts).
Before watering / flushing
Check the pH of the water you’re about to use
Adjust if needed based on what you’re growing
After watering / flushing (runoff check)
Catch some of the runoff water from the bottom of the pot
Test the runoff pH
Why check runoff?
It tells you what’s happening in the root zone
It can reveal buildup or imbalance in the soil
If your input pH is reasonable but the runoff is way off, the soil may be holding salts or has a pH drift problem.
Final Thoughts
Indoor watering isn’t complicated once you stop guessing.
What works for me is:
Checking moisture first (not guessing)
Letting certain plants dry back when they need it
Watering thoroughly instead of small sips
Tracking watering in Excel for long-term patterns
Monitoring pH (especially when nutrients are involved)
Checking runoff when flushing to understand the root zone
When you get watering right, everything else becomes easier.
